Emi's Eats: Shun Restaurant

 I finally had an extra moment to sit down and update my many blog posts that have piled up over the last six months. My May article for the North American Post was published several weeks ago, but I haven't had a second to post it on the blog until now!

This article was inspired by a crazy twist of fate that occurred on March 11, 2011. I had a long day at work, including an educational presentation for the ICU at one of my hospitals that got me home around midnight. Kyle was up as we were hosting his co-worker at our house, and he was secretly preparing for an interview the next day at Microsoft. Needless to say, this was a stressful evening. Ironically, I had been talking with a doctor at my hospital about Japan and my ties to the country. I was advising him on where to visit when he was able take a trip with his family.

As I tiredly walk in the house, Kyle nonchalantly mentions to me that there was an awful 8.9 earthquake (as it was originally classified) in Japan. Immediately, I froze. My parents had left earlier in the day for a 4 day trip to Japan for a good friend's wedding. Because the trip was so short, we hadn't really thought much about it...until that moment when we did the math and realized that they were supposed to land at the same time the earthquake hit.

I immediately ran to the TV and saw horrific images of the Armageddon-like shaking of the quake and then the massive tsunami that came after, washing away whole towns. I called my father's phone, which should be on to receive International calls, and got a very alarming message saying the number was not in service at this time. I realized that my phone had a strange number that had called earlier in the evening and checked my messages. It was our family friend in Tokyo, saying that she was OK, but that there was a massive earthquake and that my parents should have arrived at her house by now; she couldn't get in touch with them.

The next update on the news was that a tsunami was headed towards Hawaii, where my whole extended family live. I called my aunt in Hawaii, and when I started talking with her I was overcome with emotion. My aunt said that they would be fine as they were far enough away from the potential reach of a tsunami. As cliche as it sounds, these type of experiences really put into perspective what is most important, and I am convinced that I will forever better appreciate my blessed life because of this scare.

By the time I hung up and tried to sleep, it was after 2:30AM, and Kyle was supposed to leave for his interview around 7AM. At 6AM, my phone made a glorious ringing sound, signaling that a new email came through. My mother emailed a simple and short message saying they were OK and that they were being housed by the Red Cross. I found out later that as they were descending into the airport in Tokyo, the pilot was alerted to the earthquake. In a moment of panic, many workers at the airport fled to their homes, and there was no one to bring the airplane into the airport. They were diverted to the Yokota airbase, where they spent the night in a community center and were eventually flown by the US Air Force back to Tokyo where they boarded a 3 hour packed train and eventually made their way back to our friend's house.

The first meal they had was at the sushi shop I mention in the article.

So many lives were forever changed because of this horrible tragedy. Kyle and I felt incredibly lucky to know that my family and all our dear friends in Japan were safe. We also felt compelled to help in whatever way we could. Although my writing may only be seen by a handful of people, I thought maybe I could have a tiny impact by doing an article on how to help and to recognize those that are helping with relief efforts.

 

By Emi Suzuki / For The North American Post • Wed, May 04, 2011

 

As the 9.0 earthquake rocked Japan on March 11, and the ensuing tsunami devastated the Tohoku region, my parents were in a plane descending into Tokyo’s Narita airport. Unaware of the magnitude of damage, the plane was re-routed to Yokota Air Base where they were cared for and housed by the U.S. Air Force and the Red Cross at a local community center.

 

After a long journey making their way to our friend’s house, my parents replenished themselves at one of our family's favorite neighborhood sushi restaurants in the Nerima-ku part of Tokyo. Like so many of the best sushi restaurants in Japan, this one is small and hidden, nestled within a residential area. The chef and owner is always serving up the freshest and most interesting sushi for the lucky locals; on this occasion, my parents asked for the chef’s recommendation for the seasonal specials. They savored every bite, fully appreciating the privilege of having a meal during this uncertain time; however, there was one dish that they will forever cherish: the sazae (horned turban shell) from Fukushima.

 

In an attempt to immortalize this rare treat, my mother took a photo of the gnarled gastropod that was full of sweet, meaty marine snail. As my father popped the rich and fatty dark end piece in his mouth, he savored the intricate flavors, knowing that at the same time, a nuclear reactor was deteriorating in the sazae’s origin of Fukushima.

 

When my parents returned home, they recounted their earthquake stories, speaking to the heroism as well as devastation they saw and heard about. I, like so many others around the world, felt the need to do something to help. Inspired by the tale of the last Fukushima sazae, I turned to a favorite Seattle neighborhood sushi restaurant, Shun.

 

Shun has been one of the many Seattle area restaurants that have donated portions of their profits to support relief efforts for Japan.

 

Similar to our Nerima-ku sushi shop, Shun is a neighborhood favorite located in the University District. Owner and chef, Yoshi Nishizawa, opened Shun in 2006 after working at many of Seattle’s most prestigious sushi restaurants. He wanted a traditional Japanese family restaurant that would appeal to both the students and business professionals that live in the neighborhood.

 

“I am proud of our customers,” Chef Nishizawa tells me, explaining that his passion for the business is in making his customers happy. Chef Nishizawa also understands the importance of giving back to the community, which is why Shun participated in “Ganbaro Japan” as well as the upcoming “Sushi Chef Dream Team,” both benefiting relief efforts for Japan. The Sushi Chef Dream Team benefit will be held May 5 at the Bell Harbor International Conference Center on the Seattle’s Waterfront and will feature some of Seattle’s top chefs, with drinks, entertainment, a silent auction and delicious sushi.

Seattle area sushi chefs like Nishizawa and their staff are closely tied to the unfolding disaster, not only because many have family and friends from the Tohoku region, but a portion of their fish supply comes from Sendai and Chiba. Chef Nishizawa tells me that his restaurant has experienced some delayed supplies related to the ongoing issues in Japan. Benefits like the Sushi Chef Dream Team provide an avenue for the chefs and their loyal customers to raise relief aid for the people of Japan in this crisis through the simple and delicious act of making and eating Seattle sushi.

 

What are you doing to support relief efforts in Japan? Share your stories with me at twitter.com/EmisEats or EmisEats@napost.com.

 

Shun is located at 5101 25th Ave. NE #11, Seattle. (206) 522-2200. For more information on the Sushi Chef Dream Team, visit http://www.sushichefdreamteam.com/.

Happy Eating,
Emi

Emi's Eats: Behind the Scenes with Marination Mobile

This month's article, which was published in the North American Post last week (click here to see it online), featured one of the country's best food trucks, Marination Mobile. I was nervous when I first contacted the owners of the truck, because let's be honest...this small potato doesn't mean much to widely popular and well-covered businesses like Marination Mobile. However, co-owner Kamala Saxton, emailed back immediately and agreed to meet with me so I could get the inside scoop on the blue truck everyone knows so well.

What a difference from last month's experience, where I spent a month trying to win over my Grouchy Chef (by the way, I took the hat he gave me to Singapore and took a photo...a true test of whether or not he likes me will be if he posts it in the restaurant! To be continued...).

As Kamala and I started talking we quickly found a connection. Like most stories go when they relate to connections with Hawaii, we found our link immediately. Turns out Kamala grew up in Aiea, Hawaii, which is where my family farm is located. We discovered that her grandparents were friends with my grandparents, and she remembers running through the watercress fields as a kid. It was as if our paths were meant to cross.

 

 My article is a little teaser to the many posts to come relating to our amazing, food-fantastic extravaganza in Singapore. I hope you enjoy it!

Emi's Eats: Marination Mobile

In Singapore, it is hard to walk a block and not run into a hawker centre—a large, open air market that houses dozens of street vendors, all offering delicious bites for less than $3 a pop. The aroma that envelopes you is a food lover’s dream: spicy Indian soups stewing in what looks like a witch’s cauldron; fish steamed in grilled banana leaves; pork, both barbequed and roasted, hanging from hooks and ready to be topped over fragrant jasmine rice; fresh lime juice, that is both sweet and refreshingly tangy.

My recent trip to Singapore left me with a deep hunger for street food. Luckily, Seattle is home to a world class food truck where I can get my fix, and for a couple of instant gratification moments, drift back to my gluttonous and heavenly trip to Singapore.

 

Voted “Best Food Truck in America” by ABC’s Good Morning America, recently Zagat rated, and featured in nearly every national and local news outlet and magazine, Marination Mobile has truly differentiated itself from the growing fleet of food trucks that are taking over America. 

 

My first bite at Marination Mobile was on a rain drenched day. Despite the dreadful weather, there was a line nearly fifteen people deep that was constantly replenished with hungry customers throughout the lunch hour. Between my husband and me, we shared a kalbi taco, spicy pork taco, kalua pork slider and a spam slider. This $8 meal ended up being the highlight of our day, far surpassing the meal we later had that evening that was ten times more expensive. 

 

Kamala Saxton and her business partner Roz Edison are all about serving their customers an all around good value. Their delicious bites are served up by a friendly crew that makes you feel like you are grabbing lunch from your friend’s kitchen, not a hugely popular truck that serves over 200 customers a day. 

 

“If you don’t love people, don’t get in the street food business,” Kamala tells me sincerely when we meet at Marination Mobile’s kitchen in Seward Park. While their food itself warrants an official Fan Club, it is their service that also brings the masses back for more. Kamala tells me her passion for the business lies in service: serving families and kids, serving communities. It is the age old act of “breaking bread” with your neighbors, “I get to break bread with 200 people a day.”

 

And this number will grow when they open their new brick and mortar shop this summer in Capitol Hill. Fans of the truck, who loyally show up at the many lunchtime locations around Seattle will now be able to feast on spam sliders that transform ordinary “lunch meat” into something holy for dinner, too. 

 

What makes these sliders, and all of Marination Mobile’s offerings so unique is their secret sauce, which Kamala tells me is probably one of the most expensive sauces in the taco truck industry. Developed by a trained chef and friend who helped to start the business, it is the rich and creamy binding agent that brings the diverse Korean/Hawaiian flavors together in a harmonious blend. It is this perfect combination of great service and great food that makes Marination Mobile such a well-oiled machine.

 

So as my Singapore jetlag wears off, and I return to the daily grind of Seattle life with a coffee in hand and a light rain jacket on, I find great pleasure in knowing that I can stop by Marination Mobile for my street-food fix. And at the end of the day, Marination Mobile and all that Seattle offers, is a reminder that while you can travel the world over, there is no place like home. 

 

What are your favorite eats from travels abroad? Share them with me at twitter.com/EmisEats or EmisEats@napost.com.

 

You can find Marination Mobile by visiting marinationmobile.com or twitter.com/curb_cuisine. Catering available. 

 

Happy Eating, 

Emi 

Emi's Eats: Behind the Scenes with the Grouchy Chef

I first stepped into this establishment with my tail between my legs, ready to roll onto my back at any moment. I had been warned about the long list of rules to follow; that there are legends engraved by the Mayans that speak of the consequences of not adhering to the etiquette. I was also told that it was the best value in town and the food would be incredible. We went with friends last summer and I was blown away by the fact that for $15, I was able to get a wonderful gourmet 3 course meal. Turns out there was no real need to be fearful, and my imaginary tail quickly began more of a solid wag once I tasted the food.

I watched as this well oiled machine of a man worked with such innate precision, serving as a one-man show in this 10 table restaurant. I found myself hypnotized by his ability to prep and cook our meal, seat incoming parties, answer the phone, clear tables, wash dishes, serve the next course...it was like watching a super hero movie where the star operates in warp speed mode, accomplishing whole days' tasks in mere seconds. Who is this man, and how did he become "The Grouchy Chef"?

Our gym, Crossfit Mukilteo, is located next to The Grouchy Chef. When they first opened the gym they decided to be neighborly and dropped in to get a good meal after a tough workout. They were gruffly turned away for violating multiple rules: reservations only, NO workout clothes...Meanwhile, our summer time meal stuck with me and rather than reminiscing about the food as I usually do, I kept thinking about the Chef. And everyday as I pulled into the gym parking lot, I would peek in the restaurant to make sure he had customers and was doing OK; secretly assessing what level of grouchiness the Chef was that day. I thought, "this guy just needs a hug."

I am excited to have an outlet and excuse to discover the stories behind restaurants and Chefs like The Grouchy Chef with my column. I first approached Chef Takayuki Masumoto (he has a real name!) on a snowy evening when he was shaking out his rugs in the parking lot. A small winter storm had passed through the NW, and my clumsy introduction was framed with clouds as my quick words hit the cold air. I let him know about my column and asked if I could interview him. As a certified Chatty Cathy, I mistook his silence for my cue to fill it with awkward and over-the-top compliments about my appreciation of his food and his business. He finally cut me off and said he didn't know if he would be a good subject. He told me, sincerely, "I am no one special." Taking a couple steps back (both literally and figuratively) I told him that I would just make reservations to eat at his restaurant the following week and we could see what progressed. What made me think that practically attacking the poor guy in a dark, cold parking lot, wearing a crappy old sorority sweatshirt and dog hair encrusted work out pants would inspire him to be a part of my story??

When I showed up the next week at the restaurant, I dressed up; I didn't want to risk breaking one of his cardinal rules (no dirty jeans, workout clothes, sweatpants). I also wanted to prove I wasn't just "a bum in a suit" (random Wanda Sykes reference Kyle and I throw out sometimes). Mollie was my guinea pig guest this time and we dutifully sat on the wooden benches in the entry until Chef Masumoto noticed us and pointed to a table that was pre-set with menus, crystal glasses, and silverware. We read through the menu, and after deciding what we wanted, I approached the counter and ordered our food, paying with cash. I asked for the Chef's suggestion for which starch to have with my seared ahi. He said, "I don't know, that is why I call it 'YOUR CHOICE'!" I had to smile at that. He paused for a second, appraising whether or not to say what was on his mind. I raised my eyebrows, hoping he would open up to me. Be careful what you wish for.

"Can I give you some advice?" he stated, rather than asked. Oh boy. "If you want to be a real Restaurant Critic, you should not tell me when you are going to come to the restaurant. If you tell me, then I might act different, maybe kiss your butt because you tell me you will review my restaurant." Fair point. He went on to tell me that he does not want any positive review that is not well-earned. How can you be objective if you are getting special treatment?

I smiled and nodded, agreeing with him. I told him if I wanted to be a Restaurant Critic, then I would follow his advice. However, I plead, face beginning to blush, that this was not my goal. It is true, a real critic should be objective and fair-balanced. I have recently become enthralled with Ruth Reichl, former NY Times Restaurant Critic. Her memoir, Garlic and Sapphires, documents her adventures as a critic in the Food Capital and her quest to remain objective which involved elaborate disguises to elude the New York Restaurant scene.

I am not interested in reviewing food. I think I love food too much to be critical of it. I am interested in sharing the stories behind the food we eat; whether it be about the chefs, farmers, restaurateurs, traditions/rituals...I tried to convey this to him. He still looked skeptical and I think he tried EXTRA hard that evening to make sure I knew that I, too, am no one special. He was never outright rude, or really even grouchy. I think it was his way of showing me respect and demonstrating his style in action. He does not discriminate, he is gruff with everyone. At the same time, he will not just "kiss your butt" because you think you are someone special.

I really didn't have a story after that meal. I knew I had to go back, but honestly was a little nervous about what his next lesson for me would be! I brought my parents as reinforcement this time. I noticed this time that he had a sign saying "No pictures in the restaurant." My original angle for the story was that this "Grouchy" Chef was also very generous; and while he is gruff, he does not lack heart. He does not accept tips, but has a jar where you can donate to cancer research. He also offers free meals to wounded Iraq and Afghanistan Veterans to honor their sacrifices. When I approach the counter to order for my family, I asked if it would be OK to include photos of his "tip" jar for my story. He winces. Uh-oh. He tells me that the donations he makes is separate from his business. He is a for-profit business, and does not want to exploit a charitable cause to gain more customers. I tell him he is a man of strong principles, and he replies that he is just an old stubborn Japanese man. I point to my father and tell him, I have a couple of those in my life.

When he comes to serve our soup, he shakes my parents hands and thanks us for our business. I start to see a flicker of warmth, and like a puppy, practically start barking with excitement, pulling a classic Emi move by starting to talk too much. He quickly retreats to the safety of his kitchen.

As he comes back to clear our table and serve the next course, he begins to open up about his business and his philosophy behind his restaurant, which you will read about in my article. He speaks with such conviction and heart. We are all fascinated by both his words and his food at that moment.

As we finish dessert, the last guests start to trickle out. We all smile and practically high five one another for being in on the secret, knowing about the best restaurant in Mukilteo. Chef Masumoto comes back out and as he clears our plates, we pick up on our last conversation. We speak for almost an hour about his life, his career, politics, Japanese American history...I am surprised that this man I thought I would have to hold down and torture in order to get more than a single word out, is now opening up so freely. He leaves for a second and comes back with the ultimate trophy: Grouchy Chef apparel for each of us. I look over to the shelf where he keeps his merchandise and notice the sign that says "Merchandise Not For Sale." I realize that while he wanted to earn my respect through his food and work ethic, the whole time I was earning his in return. And while he may think he is no one special, I find him and his story incredibly unique. It is so cliche, but when I go home to write the article, it truly writes itself.

I hope you all enjoy it--if you can stand reading through my mini-novel of a lead in!

Emi's Eats: Grouchy Chef

While most associate February with a pricey meal with your special Valentine, I am exploring a less expensive fine dining experience in Mulkilteo: The Grouchy Chef, a hidden gem located within a grey warehouse building off the Mukilteo Speedway.  Here you can feast on refined European influenced meals served on fine china with crystal glasses in a warm bistro-like atmosphere, all for no more than $20/person for dinner and $10 for lunch including tax (no tips accepted!). The catch is this: you must follow “the rules” and put up with--The Grouchy Chef.

Chef/Owner Takayuki Masumoto runs a tight ship, as he is the captain and crew all in one.  Since he alone serves as the host, waiter, bus boy, sous-chef and executive chef, he simplifies both his gourmet food and his restaurant processes in order to pass savings on to the customer.  Growing up in Nagasaki, Chef Masumoto told me his family did not have much money; he wants “ordinary” people to be able to enjoy a fine dining experience.  Thus, he forgoes many of the luxuries of typical restaurants, like extra help and fancy food presentations, in order to provide his loyal customers with an elegant, yet affordable dining experience.  And, there are many rules upon entering his establishment: reservations only, cash only, no tipping, dress appropriately with no dirty jeans or flip flops, the list goes on. The rules and his undiscriminating gruffness are not an act but are necessary to be efficient in the kitchen and provide elegant dining at prices affordable for all, which is noteworthy in our difficult economic times.

No matter the chef’s mood of the day, his three-course meals of soup, salad, and entrée are a palate pleaser day in and day out.  On one visit the soup du jour was simply called, “chicken;” but it was so much more than just chicken. Tiny morsels of tender chicken are definitely there, but they are accompanied by a medley of perfectly diced vegetables and a broth immersed in spices with hints of curry, providing the perfect bath. When Chef Masumoto comes to clear our soup bowls, I ask him what spices he used to give the soup such a wonderfully complex flavor. He simply replies, “many.”  The next time I eat at his restaurant, a new soup du jour is called “porcini chicken consommé.”  The description is more detailed and the broth is less complex, but it still eludes me with its mysterious underlying spices and lovely layered flavors.

In addition to soup, every meal comes with a choice of the house or Caesar salad. I highly recommend the house salad, which is accented with oranges, grapes, watermelon, and mozzarella, tossed in a creamy vinaigrette dressing. You must also choose a starch to go with your entrée. While there are many choices, know that any you make will be delicious. Somehow, Chef Masumoto is able to blend the flavors of my seared rare ahi with a creamy coconut sauce and my shrimp mashed potatoes into a perfect marriage. Another time, we order leg of lamb with a mustard crust and risotto cake, NY strip steak with a cabernet reduction and shrimp mashed potatoes, and seared duck breast with a slightly sweet cinnamon glaze and cheese spaetzle. No matter what the combination, they all seem to make sense and leave you with the satisfying feeling that you made the right choice.  Be sure to save room for the $3.50 cheesecake, which is light and drizzled in bright basil and sweet blueberry sauces, which counter balance the rich creaminess of the cake.

Chef Masumoto works with precision in pacing our meal, perfectly timing each course to arrive promptly, yet not pressuring us to finish without fully enjoying the meal.  When the other customers begin to leave and he finally has a moment to speak with me, I discover that he is of the old guard that whole-heartedly believes in earning one’s respect through hard work and continually strives to improve his craft.  I am particularly impressed with his knowledge of Japanese American history and his sincerity when he emphasizes how he would not be in business without the sacrifices and foundation laid by the Japanese American pioneers who came before him.

Without sugar coating things or ruining the infamous reputation of the Grouchy Chef, I walk away with a deeper understanding of the man behind the madness.  The Grouchy Chef is open on Valentine’s Day, reservations only.

What are your Valentine’s Day plans? Share them with me at twitter.com/EmisEats or EmisEats@napost.com.

The Grouchy Chef is located at 4433 Russell Road, Suite 113, Mukilteo, WA 98275, 425-493-9754. Reservations Only.

Happy Eating,
Emi

Emi's Eats: Behind the Scenes at Hiroshi's

My first column article published this week in the North American Post. I had spent much time agonizing over what my angle would be. All I knew was that I wanted to go with a restaurant that I knew was good and that is actively involved in our community. Naturally, I went with Hiroshi's which has been one of my favorites for many years and a restaurant I have blogged about before.

As I take on this new adventure, there are a couple of distinct challenges I have realized I will face that I do not face with blogging.

#1: I now have deadlines. Writing for me is an organic experience and comes best when I have time and a good glass of wine. I am having flashbacks to writing mid term papers at 10PM the night before they are due. I am finding that one month can pass by quickly and my deadline can approach like a swell of waves where once one hits, the next can come quickly behind to wash over you, one after another...

#2: Fact checking. As much as Kyle and I like to think everything we say or write about is 100% fact, I realize there is so much opinion and bias to what we write about in our blog. Putting your thoughts in black and white print forces you to really think about what you write and make sure if it is not your opinion, that there is solid fact checking to back your claims.

#3: Word count. I haven't even gotten to my first article or any interesting facts about Hiroshi's, and I have already written a novel. I obviously need to work on the concept of "less is more." I have 500-800 words per article and found it very difficult to filter all my thoughts in a short article. Back to my mid-term paper flashbacks: I used to spend hours re-formatting papers with larger font, larger margins, adding in superlative words to make my paper reach the magic page number requirement; now I am having the opposite problem, struggling for hours to edit it down.

However, in the end, I am finding the whole experience, challenges and all, exciting and invigorating! It is so fun to have this new outlet and the best part about it is I am learning so much more about my favorite restaurants and our wonderful Seattle community. Plus, I have also found that my fabulous food-fanatic husband and marketing extraordinaire, is the best partner in crime and gives me inspiration and ideas for future articles. I couldn't ask for a better supporter. His only request is that I thank him in my future book--I think this blog may be the closest we will come to that...THANK YOU HUSBAND!

So here we go with the first article. My goal was to discuss osechi ryori (traditional Japanese New Year's food) and restaurants that serve it. I hit the writers gold mine by starting with Hiroshi's because I found out through research that he is really the only restaurant that serves osechi and is open on New Years. Kyle and I had a fabulous lunch at the sushi bar and spoke with Hiroshi for hours about his food, family, career and New Year's traditions. He even took the time to show us how he makes one of his osechi dishes, shrimp balls. The above picture is of him making the shrimp, which I included in the article.

In addition to what is included in the article, we found out that other than food, Hiroshi has a deep passion for travel and adventure. He first traveled on his own when he was 9 years old (obviously a different time and a different place, Japan is much safer than the US!) and once he was 18, backpacked through 35 countries including Russia, China, Europe and Southeast Asia. He finally decided he had to settle down and work, and trained under a sushi master chef in Japan. Then, a customer who did business in Seattle suggested that he come to Seattle and open a restaurant so he could eat Hiroshi's food when he did his business travel. Hiroshi obliged and the rest is history.

Hiroshi does a lot for the Seattle Japanese American community. He recently was the on-site caterer for the filming of a Japanese mini-series on the WWII internment of Japanese Americans. I could go on for many more pages, but let's just go with the article. Thanks for putting up with my babbling!

Emi’s Eats: Osechi Ryori

I associate my childhood New Year’s celebrations with being forced to eat one kuromame (sweet black bean) for good health and one morsel of each carefully prepared nishime ingredient for good luck. These foods are the same symbols and traditions that many of us in the Japanese American community share year in and year out.

As a young food lover, this was not my favorite holiday because I often left the New Year’s parties unsatisfied and still hungry. However, as I get older, I have acquired a love and respect for osechi ryori (traditional Japanese New Year’s dishes) not only because my palate has refined since those Kraft-macaroni-and-cheese-loving-days, but also because of the amount of time and care that goes into making each and every one of the dozens of dishes that are a part of our Japanese American community Oshogatsu celebrations.

After a fabulous lunch at one of my favorite local spots, Hiroshi’s (2501 Eastlake Ave. E., Seattle 98102, 206-726-4966), I sat down with the chef and owner, Hiroshi Egashira, to discuss his Oshogatsu food traditions and New Year’s restaurant offerings.

While most other Japanese restaurants close over the New Year, Hiroshi’s remains open and serves up traditional osechi to those of us who do not have a skilled Obaachan (grandmother) to make the meal for us. While we speak of “traditional” Japanese foods, we see in Hiroshi's example that osechi foods vary infinitely because of the makers' artistry, creativity, and tastes.

Over three days, Hiroshi and his staff labor over each dish, even working through the night. I came in on December 30 and Hiroshi told me he would be lucky to get two hours of sleep that night as he worked to finish the last dishes. While he has several cooks who help him with the preparation, he alone crafts each dish since there is no exact recipe. Rather, Hiroshi uses his instincts and feelings to produce some of the best osechi in town; instincts he learned beginning at age three from his mother when he helped her prepare for Oshogatsu.
I watched as he prepared one of his osechi specialties, shrimp balls. Egg yolks and salt are blended in a food processor and are emulsified with oil to create a smooth mayonnaise type of binding agent; Hiroshi says it helps give the shrimp a richer flavor with more umami. After setting this mixture to the side, he blends one hundred deveined shrimp in the food processor with salt and mixes the shrimp with the mayonnaise. Mixing chopped onions and potato starch with white pepper, he carefully rolls his shrimp and mayonnaise through the starchy white powder to form little ornament-sized balls that look like snow balls you could hang from a Christmas tree. Instead, he deep fries the shrimp balls and out they come, perfectly golden with an aroma so delectable that there is little chance you would let it sit uneaten in a beautiful bento box, let alone hang it on your tree. The end result is a truly satisfying Japanese-style meatball that packs in great shrimp flavor with a slightly spongy and surprisingly light texture.

Hiroshi's shrimp balls, golden and delicious.

Watching Hiroshi make just one dish left me feeling exhausted, and I know there are dozens more still to be made. This is part of the reason he told me he has never thought of New Year’s as a “holiday.” It is work, made worthwhile because of his over three hundred loyal customers who order his famed osechi every year and feast gratefully, appreciating the fact that someone else labored to make their traditional fare. Meanwhile, on January 2, you will find Hiroshi catching up on some much needed rest on one of his few days off before jumping into another busy year.

What are your New Year’s family traditions and eats? Share them with me at twitter.com/EmisEats or Emiseats@napost.com.

Happy Eating,

Emi